– Ultimate guide –
This guide is a step-by-step walk through to help you design and make your own DIY neon sign.
For the beginner to experienced hobbyist, you can turn your design into an eye-catching neon sign.
Bring your special event or work space alive with your personalised custom light. Create your own fun creative design, and save hundreds off the professional done-for-you neon sign.
Before you make any cuts, apply any glue, or make any holes in your backboard, you need to plan your design. As the saying goes, failing to plan is planning to fail. And that is certainly true here. A good plan will reduce the likelihood of making mistakes, and save you a lot of time.
There are two planning sheets included in your DIY Neon Sign kit. One has your design printed on the front, and the other has your design printed in reverse.
You’ll start by working on the front planner. It will look something like this (but with your own design, of course).
LED neon is very flexible and can bend at close to 180 degrees. However, most designs require the neon to branch off in two or more directions.
The letter ‘T’ for example, forms a T-junction. With neon flex this requires two neon strips both independently connected to the electrical circuit.
On your neon plan, draw a dashed line to indicate where one neon strip ends and the other begins.
The font I’ve chosen doesn’t require any adjoining neon strips. Most letters are a single piece of neon, which makes it really easy to use.
However, if I was using a cursive font, the adjoining cut would be marked like this…
I’ve marked the join with the dotted line. Do the same on your plan. Mark each part of your design where one strip meets another.
The mount clip is a small plastic clip that holds the neon strip to the backboard. It is these mount clips that guides the shape of the neon flex and forms your design.
Here’s what the mount clip looks like:
You will need to place a mount clip before and after each neon direction change. If you need to create a 180 degree turn, you’ll need two clips, as shown on the planner below.
Allow a 1cm gap at the end of each neon strip. This gap will allow space for the end caps. I’ll explain more about end caps in the later section.
I use the abbreviation “mc” for Mount Clip. Here’s how it looks on my front planner.
Now your turn. Go ahead and mark the position of your mount clips on your front planner.
Each neon flex strip will have its own electrical clip. The electrical clip connects the neon flex with the electrical circuit.
The electrical clip snaps into place. Two pins pierce the skin of the neon flex to make the electrical connection.
The clip wiring always runs to the left of the clip head, with the red wire (positive) on top. More on the electrical clips in a later section.
In the example below you’ll see the electrical clip (ec) marked on the plan along with a directional arrow showing the direction of the clip wiring
Add your electrical clips to your neon front planner. Make sure to add the directional arrow.
Remember that the arrow runs to the left of the clip head. This will be important when you position the clip, making sure the neon strip is orientated in the right direction.
The electrical wires feed through the backboard from front to back. This keeps the front of your sign free of wires and looking neat and tidy.
The backboard holes will position at least 3cm from the start of the electrical clip head. It will then make a 90 degree downward angle to feed through the backboard hole through to the back of the sign.
I’ve marked the position of the backboard holes using the abbreviation “bh”. It’s important to note, this planner is a layout guide and not to scale. The actual position of the backboard hole may change depending on the size of your neon design.
Go ahead and mark the position of the backboard holes on your front planner. Remember that you need to position the backboard hole on the same side as the electrical clip wire.
Ok, you are now finished with the front planner. It should look something like this…
Next, you’re going to work on the back planer to create your electrical circuit plan.
First thing you will notice is that your design is reverse printed. This is because we’re planning the back of the sign. If you could turn your sign over and see through the backboard, then you would see the sign back-to-front. Like this…
Also notice that the alpha-numeric grid letters are reversed. With the design reversed, these letters are also reversed so that they correspond to the same grid position on the front planner.
Your power lead can exit your sign from the top, middle or bottom. It’s really your choice. Have a think about how you’ll display your sign. And where your sign will be positioned in relation to the nearest mains power supply.
For the purpose of this tutorial, I’m going to have the power lead exit from the bottom left position.
On the back planner, remember that the sign is reversed. An exit position in the bottom left corresponds to the bottom right on the back planner.
Mark on your plan the position of your power lead.
Take out your front planner for reference. Using the alphanumeric grid position, write down the position of each backboard hole.
In the example above, the first backboard hole is in the alphanumeric grid position C12.
Now, as I’ve previously explained, the purpose of the plan is for a general reference. You are only aiming to get the general positioning. So that when you assemble your neon sign, it makes the process far easier.
In the above example the backboard hole is positioned in C12. You also want to “eye” the position and make sure it looks right. Then, when you’re confident with the position, mark this on the back planner.
Here you can see that I’ve marked the backboard hole in position C12.
Next, number each of the backboard holes. This number will correspond to a position on a 3-way junction (more on that later).
Go ahead and number all your backboard holes on the back planner.
The backboard can be any shape you choose.
Keep in mind that the backboard is the backbone of your sign. The less backboard you have, the more fragile your sign will be.
It is also an attachment for the electrical circuit. If you plan a minimal backboard, don’t forget to allow space for the circuit.
Start with a pencil and draw a square or rectangle margin around your design. I recommend you start with a 2cm – 4cm square margin.
If you are happy with this rectangle backboard, great. Move on to the next step.
If you want a minimal backboard, you can freehand draw your backboard shape inside the square or rectangle.
You can draw your backboard shape to follow the general shape of your design. Or alternatively, you can draw as little as 2cm – 4cm margin around your the design.
NB: for a foam backboard I don’t recommend cutting away any more than 1-2cm margin.
If you want to add a cut to shape style to your backboard, you can follow the path your design. Once you’r done drawing on your backboard shape, you can use an eraser to remove the original rectangle. Or just leave it on, it’s up to you.
This best fit line serves as the centre point for the electrical circuit. You will attach 3-way junction clips and electrical wires along this line.
Draw your best fit line through your design.
The 3-way junction clip connects the electrical current to the neon light. It has one entry port on one side and 3 exit ports on the other.
NB: the electrical current flows in one direction. In through the entry port and out through the three exit ports. Your design must flow from the power source, through each entry port and out the exit ports.
In the image below I’ve plugged the connector clips (black/transparent) into the 3-way junction (white).
Starting from the end where you’ll position the power lead, draw your first 3-way junction clips onto your plan.
The power lead will clip into the entry port on the 3-way junction. Add the power lead annotation “PL” next to the entry port.
Next, you need to add a number to the exit ports of the 3-way junction clips.
Of the three available exit ports, two will connect to neon flex strips through their backboard hole. The third remaining exit ports will pass the electrical current along to the next 3-way junction clip.
Add a number on your exit ports to correspond with the two nearest backboard holes that you numbered in step 1.7.
Then, draw an arrow connecting the exit port to the corresponding backboard hole.
Mark the position of the remaining 3-way junction clips on your plan. Remember to leave one exit port for the junction-to-junction connector that we’ll cover next.
Choose each clip position so that it provides easy access for the connecting wires.
NB: position the electrical circuit so it doesn’t interfere with your final backboard style. You don’t want any wires visible around the edges of the backboard.
Repeat steps 1.12 & 1.13 to link all backboard holes to a 3-way junction clip.
The junction-to-junction wire connects 3-way junction clips. Use the annotation J2J to label the position of all junction-to-junction connectors on your plan.
This completes the planning stage of your make your own neon kit.
Now that your plan is complete, it is time to assemble your neon sign.
The hard part is done. Now comes the fun of putting it together and bringing your neon sign to life.
The right backboard material needs to be easy to work with, durable, and look stylish.
There is no “one size fits all”. It depends how you are going to use your sign, what style you want, the tools you have available, and your arts and crafts expertise.
For 95% of users I recommend a foam based backboard. Foam is lightweight and easy to use. All you’ll need is a sharp knife or blade – no sawing or drilling required. And you can achieve a beautiful, professional looking neon sign.
In this guide I used a 5mm foam sheet that you will find in an office supplies or arts and crafts store.
The product is available in both black, white, and grey. And in varying sizes up to A1. Which is large enough for the majority of users.
For signs bigger than this, you can spit the sign into adjoining parts (multiple sheets). The parts connect through a simple junction-to-junction wire (more on this later).
Or alternatively, you might consider a done-for-you custom neon sign. Our custom made signs can be any size and are covered by our 2-year warranty. [link]
The remainder of this guide will focus on 5mm foam backboards. However, each step can be adapted for your backboard of choice.
Included with your make you own neon kit is your design label. This attaches to the backboard.
The design label is printed on A4 sized sheets. Designs that are bigger than a single sheet of A4 will have multiple adjoining sheets.
Use scissors to cut the label immediately before the dashed line (removing the dashed line).
Next, starting at one end of the design, peel back the first few centimeters of the label. And then, align the straight edge of the label with the straight edge of the backboard.
When you are happy with the positioning, peel away the disposable part of the label sticking down the design as you go.
Repeat this process to fix all your design labels to the backboard.
Unless you have a specific reason for retaining the backboard in one piece, you can now cut away the excess.
In the earlier step you should have designed your backboard shape (see back planner). Start by cutting a square/rectangle backboard with a suitable margin around your design.
Next, if you planned a design shaped backboard, you are going to use a sharp knife or craft blade to shape your backboard.
Here is the craft knife I used to cut the backboard. You will find this at your local arts and crafts, or home improvement store. I like this because the shape of the blade makes it easier to cut the fine shape around my design.
If you have a steady hand you can freehand cut the shape of your backboard. I recommend you draw the shape of your backboard first. Then carefully cut away and remove the excess.
NB: Don’t throw away your off cuts. You may have a use of these when it comes to mounting your sign.
The proper placement of your mount clips will add to the overall quality and finish of your sign.
Refer to your front planner that will include the positioning for all the mount clips.
Apply an even amount of glue to the contact surface of the mount clip. Then place the mount clip into the final position.
Repeat this step fixing all the mount clips to your backboard.
Then take a break to allow for the glue to set.
In Step 1.1 you marked the position of each neon cut in your design. Now you are going to measure the length of each strip.
Take out the neon flex included in your Make Your Own Neon kit. You will use this to measure the length of each neon strip.
NB: Only begin this step once the glue on the mount clips has set.
Run the neon flex around the design path, placing it into the mount clips along the design path.
Don’t worry about bending and manipulating the neon strip. It’s extremely flexible and can bend in all directions without causing any damage to the light.
Stop when you reach a breakpoint in the design. Inspect the neon placement to make sure you are happy with the shape. Then, take out your pen and draw a mark on the side where you can see the dot marked cutting units.
Place the neon flex on its side with the electrical tracks and cutting unit facing up.
The LED cutting unit is approximately 1cm in length. You need to cut on the mark to keep the light unit intact. Cutting either side of the mark may break that 1cm LED unit.
Find the mark you made you made on the neon. Using a cutting board and sharp knife or blade, cut the first strip of neon to the nearest 1cm cutting unit.
Place the neon strip back in position. This time, make sure it is positioned with the track lines on the same side that you want the electrical clip.
Refer back to your front planner for the position of the electrical clip. Proper placement of the clip is on the same side as the track lines, with the clip head on the right, electrical wires on the left.
With the neon strip in position, mark the placement of the electrical clip.
Your electrical clip needs a minimum of 3cm from the start of the clip head to the backboard electrical hole. Make sure your electrical clip has at least 3cm for the electrical clip and backboard hole.
With a pen or pencil, make a mark on the neon strip to indicate where the electrical clip head will start. Draw your mark after the mount clip. And overlap here will push the neon strip up and out of the mount clip.
Optional extra step: Write a number on the underside of each neon strip. Then write this number against the same part on your front planner. This will help you organise the strips in case they are detached from their backboard position.
Repeat steps 2.5 & 2.6 to cut and fit your neon flex strips. And mark the start position for the electrical clips.
The backboard hole will feed the electrical clip wire through to the back of the sign. The position of the electrical hole needs to be approx. 3cm from the start of the electrical clip.
With the neon strip in position, measure 3cm to the left of the mark you made in the previous step.
Then with your pen, make a mark where you will make the backboard hole. The hole needs to be positioned about 3mm away from the body of the neon strip.
Repeat this step to mark the position for all the backboard holes.
The foam backboard is soft enough that you can pierce through with some sharp pointed scissors.
Using your scissors, pierce a hole in the position of the mark for the backboard hole.
The reinforcement ring will keep the backboard hole from expanding.
Take out your reinforcement ring and place one over the backboard hole.
Repeat these steps to pierce all the backboard holes and attach the reinforcement rings.
As you begin connecting the electrical parts, it’s a good idea to test and make sure it’s all working as expected.
Here’s what you will need to create your test circuit (all included in the make your own neon kit):
Unlike the electrical clip, which has red and black wires, the dimmer switch wires are transparent.
Of the two transparent wires, one has a white stripe. This wire carries the “negative” (-) charge, while the unmarked wire carries the “positive” (+) charge.
On the underside of the wire connector you’ll see a plus (+) symbol. This marks the positive wire port.
Insert the positive dimmer wire into the positive port. Then insert the negative wire (with the striped line) into the negative port.
Next, pinch the connector clip closed. For this you’ll need some pliers. Apply gently pressure on the connector clip until you feel some resistance. Don’t force the clip closed. It’s best to apply a small amount of pressure and then release. Then repeat, closing the clip a little more earth time.
NB: it’s important to make a good connection with the wire connector. You can do this by pushing the wire firmly into the connector.
The connector clip has a tiny latch that will sometimes make a click sound when it closes. Once closed, it will stay firmly attached to the wires.
Repeat the above process for the electrical clip.
The electrical clip has red and black wires. The red is the positive. Insert the red wire into the positive (+) port, and the black wire into the negative port.
In an earlier step you marked the position for the electrical clip on each neon strip.
Take your first neon flex strip from your design. Attach your test electrical clip in the position that you marked earlier.
NB: the electrical clip connects on the same side as the electrical tracks.
The connection forms a tight fit. Once you have the electrical clip in position, you may need your pliers to squeeze the clip into position and closed.
Then, use your pliers to close the clip.
Now that you have all the wire connectors attached, you can test the neon strip.
Plug your transformer into the wall outlet and connect your transformer to the dimmer switch.
Next, connect the dimmer switch to your neon strip. The two wire connectors clip together as shown below.
Finally, turn your power on at the outlet. Then press the power button on your dimmer switch.
Once you have confirmed that your neon strip is working correctly, repeat this process to test all your neon strips.
If any of your neon strips fail to light up, first check that all wires are connected positive (+) to positive and negative (-) to negative.
If this is correct, 9 times out of 10 the problem will be the position of the electrical clip on the neon strip. (This is why it’s best to test the strip first).
If neither of steps one and two resolves the issue, try another neon strip. If none of the strips are working, then the problem will be with your wire connectors. Go back through the steps above to check that you have connected the clips correctly.
You might need to detach and reattach the clips.
It can be frustrating when you have a bad connection. This is one reason why I recommend you assemble a test circuit.
Not only does this allow you to practice with the connections, you also get the hang of assembling them correctly.
Now that you have tested the neon strips, it’s time to assemble your neon sign.
You will complete steps 2.11 – 2.16 for each neon strip in succession. Once you’re done with one strip, come back and repeat the process for the next.
Each neon strip will have two puncture holes left behind from the test. Provided the test clip was placed in the correct position (between the track lines), you simply need to follow this positioning with its replacement.
Important: You are attaching the electrical clip only. This still needs to feed through the backboard. Do not attach the wire connector to the electrical clip wire. You will do this in a later step.
The rubber end caps attach to any open end of neon flex. You do not need to add end caps to parts of the design that meets with another (unless you want to).
The rubber end caps have an overlap of about 1cm. This is far more overlap than you need.
Take out your scissors and trim the end cap to around 3-5mm.
Then, put a small amount of glue in the end cap, before placing it on your neon strip.
Allow for the glue to set before you proceed.
The electrical hole should be positioned directly below the electrical wire. Bend the wire at 90 degrees and feed the wire through the electrical hole to the back of the sign.
The electrical clip should be attached to the neon strip, with the electrical wire feeding through the backboard.
Next, bend and flex the neon strips into position in the mount clips.
Repeat this for all your neon flex strips.
Okay, you are moving along nicely. You should now have the front of your DIY sign almost complete.
You now need to connect the electrical circuit. Turn over your DIY neon sign so you can start to connect the electrical circuit.
Take out your back planner document, which shows the position of your 3-way junction clips.
Starting from the same end where you have the power supply. Hold the 3-way junction clip in the general positioning as shown on your plan.
Then, check to make sure the electrical wires have enough length to reach the junction clip. If not, you may need to reposition the mount clip.
NB: you want the junction clips centrally positioned behind your design. This is especially important if you have cut the backboard to the shape of your design.
Once you are happy with the final positioning, add some glue to the back of the junction clip and fix it in to place.
Repeat this step for all of your junction clips.
Each electrical wire needs a wire connector clip.
The electrical clip has two wires. One red wire and one black. The red wire is the positive current and the black is the negative.
Underneath the connector clip you will see a plus symbol (+) above the positive port.
Insert the red wire into the positive (+) port. Then insert the black wire into the negative port.
The red and black electrical wires are pre striped. This helps to make a good connection to the wire connector.
If the exposed part of the wire is frayed, it can be difficult to thread into the connector port. To fix this, twist the wire into a point. This makes them easier to feed into port.
It’s important to make a good connection with the wire connector. Push the wire firmly into the wire connector.
Once you have inserted the wires, use pliers to close the wire connector. Apply gently pressure until you feel resistance, then release. Repeat this multiple times, closing the clip further with each attempt.
Do not force the clip closed. Using excessive force on the clip will cause it to break.
The wire connector has a tiny latch that will often make a click sound when it closes. Once closed, it will stay firmly attached to the wires.
Now that you have your test circuit ready, you can easily test each part of your neon sign.
Connect the connector clip that you just fitted to your test circuit.
Then turn it on to check that you have a good connection.
Now attach a connector clip to all your remaining electrical wires. Then test each part to make sure you have a good connection.
On your back planner you will see the junction-to-junction connectors labeled “J2J”. These connect 3-way junction clip to 3-way junction clip.
Take out the electrical wire included with your neon kit.
Measure the distance between the first two 3-way junction clip ports. This is the length the junction-to-junction wire needs to connect. Cut a length of wire.
Next, you need to add wire connectors to both ends of the junction-to-junction wire. This step is mostly the same as the previous step, with one small difference.
You need to strip off 5mm at both ends to expose the wire. This helps to make a clean electrical connection between the junction clip and the wire.
To strip the wire you ideally want to use some wire strippers. The multi tool I’m using here has a wire stripper.
Alternatively, you can use some sharp scissors.
If using scissors to strip the wire, cut carefully through the outer coating of the wire. Be careful not to cut through the conductive wire. You only want to cut through the wire coating.
Once you have cut through some of the coating, you can use pliers to strip the excess coating. Pinch the pliers just after the cut. Then pull to remove the outer coating.
Of the two wires, one has a stripe. Again, the striped wire carries the negative (-) charge, while the other, unmarked wire carries the positive (+) charge.
Once you have stripped the wires, add the connector to both ends.
With reference to the back planner, repeat this process for all junction-to-junction wires.
If you haven’t already done so, connect your electrical circuit.
At this point all your wires should have wire connector clips. To connect these to your 3-way junction, insert the clip directly into one of the ports.
Refer to your back planner. In an earlier step you numbered each of the backboard holes and connected it to a 3-way junction port. Go ahead and connect the circuit.
The dimmer switch has a wire connector clip that you fitted in an earlier step. This connects your sign to the power source through the first 3-way junction clip.
Push your dimmer switch connector clip into the 3-way entry port.
Connect your dimmer switch to your transformer and your transformer to your mains supply. Then press the power button on your dimmer switch.
Provided everything is connected correctly, your sign will turn on.
The mount style below is only one of many ways to mount your sign. I’m going to use Command Picture Hanging Strips. However, there are lots of mount tape options and the process will be the same for other brands.
Looking at the back of your DIY neon sign, you ideally need space for two vertical strips where you can attach the mount housing.
The mount strips that I am using are 1.9cm width and 9.3cm length. My mount housing will need to be at least this in size.
Also, the 3-way junction clips have a depth of 0.8cm. Therefore, you need to raise the mount housing by at least 1cm to create a usable surface for the mount tape.
For this you will need the off-cuts that you saved from the backboard.
Measure and cut the strips from your backboard off-cuts.
You will need two pieces of the 5mm foam board glued together and fixed to either side of the backboard.
This will give you enough clearance from the electrical circuit. So you can fix the sign to the wall without interfering with the electrical components.
Attach the sticky surface of the Command Picture Hanging strip to your mount.
Each Command Picture Hanging strip has two parts. One part attaches to the sign and the other sticks to the wall.
Using a pencil, make a mark on the wall where you want the left border of your sign. Next, stick the wall component of the Command Picture Hanging strip to the wall.
The second (and all additional) Command Picture Hanging strips need to match the same distance apart as their counterpart on your neon sign.
Measure the distance between the Command Picture Hanging strips on your neon sign. Then using your pencil, make a mark on the wall for the second Command Picture Hanging strip.
Before sticking down the next mount strip, make sure your attachment point is level with your first mount strip.
You can use a spirit level. Or alternatively, you can measure the distance from the floor to the top of the mount strip. This should keep your mount strips nice and level.
Finally, sick the Command Picture Hanging Strip to the wall.
After one hour for the strips to grip. Then attach your sign to the wall.
Congratulations. This concludes the DIY Neon sign user guide.
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